Remember Me? Advanced Search. Results 1 to 6 of 6. Hey guys haven't posted here for a long while. Not sure how many people even care or would even attempt to do this swap. But here's a guide I posted on another forum back in The F22 can be removed from either the top or the bottom, but dropping it from the bottom is easier if you have a lift and engine dolly at hand.
With compressor removed from the engine, string it up to the lower radiator support to keep it out of harms way. Keep in mind that a lot of pieces are being reused, so its time well spent making sure you have everything unhooked before you move the engine. Engine Mounts Getting the H22 bolted in will require cutting tweaking and general rearrangement of the stock left side mount, or the purchase of Hasports part for this swap.
The Hasports part is solid aluminum and comes with a polyurethane bushing, which reduces engine movement but increases vibration compared to stock rubber.
The other three mounts are based on original parts. A few decent launches will finish off any old and cracked mounts and its too easy of a job to pass up when the engine is out.
Either the Accord of the Prelude rear bracket and mount set no mixing and matching between them can be used but the Prelude parts are stiffer and a wiser choice.
Or keep your eye out for Hasport-produced mount that will adapt the autos frame rail bracket to a manual transmission. To tackle it yourself, get the two engines side by side, add a tasty beverage and get familiar with these mods.
Same wires, different location to fit around the h22a. You can keep the same pins but swap out the plastic connector. This simply supplies power to the AIB solenoid.
Swap those two pins in the under das connector and thank the engineers for there effort. Replace a few inches of the Accord line with a piece you cut from the preludes. This is the high pressure side of the pump which can run at about times the pressure of the engine oil system, so its not a connection to be made with hose clamps.Forums New posts. What's new New posts New media New media comments Latest activity. Media New media New comments.
Is the H22A swap worth it in an Accord? I say yes. Status Not open for further replies. Accordturbo94 said: On the stock F22 motor I ran I didnt try with the h Im going to have to say im very unimpressed with the h22 swap.
I had every bolt on possible and i still dont think it was worth a damn! That my 2 cents take it as you will! I thought the discussion better belonged here on the swap thread. Thanks for sharing your experience and times with the H22A but it really depends on your expectations. Here were my expectations of the H22A Swap.
My overall goal was to have a 4 door Accord, not a light weight smaller civic for a daily driver. Power is always there ready and smooth since it's not from a NOS bottle squirt. There was just this Accord with built internals, NA and no bottle running at the track hitting in the mid 13's. This is my guess at times as mine isn't turbo'd - yet.
Again, another guess but the HP to time slip to weight of car formula looks about right. I've seen fully built, lightened turbo'd Civic HB's hitting 11's. So, if you had an Accord with an H22A motor built the same as the Civic it should come close to 12's unless of course the civic has an H22A in it.
In which case the civic is already hitting 13's with a stock NA H22A motor because of the bottom line that some civic HB's only weigh under 2,lbs! Is the H22A worth the money for the swap? It is if you want to keep an Accord and get rid of the older F series HP motor then I say it is definately worth it!
I would say it is definitely worth it, to me. My motor was shot, and given the upcoming expense, the H22 was a splurge. If I had a F22B1, which already had hp, I probably wouldn't have done the swap. I do like the fact that I can turn 8k without blowing my motor.
I get decent mileage, and have tons of power at my disposal. I may in the future run low boost on the stock JDM engine. Probably about 6 psi. I'm with you Bruce. If I wanted a crotch rocket, I would have bought one. Buying a Accord, and ripping off all the power options to make it faster seems silly to me.Forums New posts.
Seems like a toss up in the forums. I've been down a car for almost 2 weeks, if I decide to do the swap, is there any way to get this thing done over a weekend or should I expect to be out of a car for atleast another 2 weeks? I did mine over Martin Luther King weekend, so I had an extra day. If you've got people who know what they're doing, you should be able to complete it if you start on a Friday.
And Mod Moderator. Way to search. Actually you need to lengthen the fuel line on the H22 to go to the other side of the engine bay OR you can use the F22 fuel rail. If you read the Swap info for the 4th gen accord you could probably get some info on keeping the power steering pump. I havent done a swap on accord, so i couldnt be much help there. You seem to have everything else about right.
If you get a swap from HMotors i think they include the axel that you need. Thats what i remember hearing anyway. Your swap will be quite similar, almost exactly the same. You will have to switch pins A6 and A11 at the ECU, and a few minor items like fuel and vacuum hoses will be routed slightly different. Nothing worth worrying about. Originally posted by reikoshea Sep 26PM teehee Now for a couple more questions. Which motor mounts are going to be Prelude and which are going to be Accord?
The swap begins tonight or Friday. Wish me luck. The tranny mount, thrust mount and rear mount are all fine. Good luck. The egr is a pain in the ass but i dont think you can pass emissions without it. Took out the old engine Right now I'm preparing to rewire the old harnesses to the new engine. The H22's got two main wire looms, whereas the F22's got three which appear to lead back to basically the same locations as the two on the HThe B series swap is one of the most common Honda swaps.
Most people are unaware of another easy, but not quite as common engine swap. The H22A Prelude engine swapped into an Accord. Why is this an easy swap?HOW TO: H22 Swap guide for HONDA ACCORDS
If the Accord engine fit in the Prelude, then why not put a more desirable Prelude engine into the Accord? Mechanically, it is a very easy swap. Electrically it is more difficult unless you can source a conversion harness. Writing a how-to is more than I was willing to undertake for this write-up. This leaves you with two options: Modify the Accord harness to work with the new engine or find a conversion harness.
The H22a swap is much less common due to the popularity of utilizing K-Series engines for swaps. Careful cutting and splicing is necessary to reroute the wires to the distributor. Keep this in mind when planning your swap. This chart will provide you with the info you need to do a similar swap. This table provides the wiring pairing to splice the distributor wiring. I only have the wiring mapped out for the H22a equipped with an internal ignition coil. This is exactly how I wired the distributor and it worked flawlessly.
h22a into 1990 accord
You may want to twist the wires and wrap them in tin foil to repair the shielded wiring that leads to the distributor. The other prelude mounts will NOT work. A little experimenting always goes a long way. You can retain your stock AC system as long as you use the accord AC bracket and compressor. The prelude AC mount will work if you want to try and use a prelude AC compressor.
However, if you have a working system in your accord, there is no need to replace the components. If you use the Accord AC compressor, you will definitely need to use the accord crank pulley. This makes it easier to buy belts. You can use either Prelude or Accord axles and intermediate shaft. They are essentially the same.
On the intermediate shaft side, you cannot mix Accord and Prelude parts.Its for educational purposes, so we all can have a "faster" accord. Buy a Helms manual for both the engine you have and the car it is going into and get acquainted with them. Try to get all the parts you will need beforehand, this can be a pain in the arse if you don't know what you will need because of the lack of consistent info on this swap-or blantant misinformation from kids who had a shop do it, but like to speculate and give advice as to the hows and whys without knowing what they are talking about.
Hopefully this little piece will help. Find out the results of a compression test if you can, I think some crate motors come with paperwork with results. All I did was pull the plugs and valvecover to see the piston tops and general condition of the head, and turned the crank with a wrench to make sure it wasn't seized, and verify that the valvetrain moved smoothly.
Keep in mind that it is all easier with the motor out. The JDM motor we purchased was a bit weathered, there was some water in the head and a bit of rust on the cams. I pulled the head apart, save for the valves and cleaned the shite out of everything. The oil pan was also dented. Since the mounts, hoses and axles are all cut to get the motor out in what I am sure is record time-they are useless. Here is what we had to replace, to give you an idea of what you are getting in to.
There is a special tool to compress the tensioner, which is unnecessarily complex if you ask me. You could probably stick with the Accord canister as well.
90-02 Honda Accord H22A Engine Wiring Harness Conversion (*Cores Required)
A Prelude mount must be used, and the metal bushing that holds the bolt mounting it to the frame must be shaved down slightly to fit between the brackets on the frame, you will see when you do it.
Axles: Use the stock Accord axles, and intermediate shaft. Make sure you get it long enough. Keep in mind that belt lengths will depend on what you use. Belts: Depending on which accessory pumps you use Prelude or Accord the belts may be different length. Basically, just get your stuff mounted up and measure the length of the needed belt, and take yourself to NAPA. Hoses: Use the upper and lower radiator hoses off the Prelude, as well as the drivers side heater hose, that goes to the back of the block.
Is the H22A swap worth it in an Accord? I say yes
You may also need to pick up some vaccum hose, as some of the solenoids, valves etc. Consult the vaccum hose diagram in the Prelude manual for more details here, it's pretty self explanitory. May as well pick up the bracket with the 3 hard lines for the vaccum hoses that also attaches to the firewall See vacuum hose diagram.Forums New posts. What's new New posts New media New media comments Latest activity.
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The H22a donor engine from a 94 prelude is in the accord no worries! The problem i have is, all the plugs to the sensors on the left hand side plug up, only have one stray plug, but on the crank side, i have the loom from the ECU with 5 or 6 large multi pin plugs. I cant find a wiring diagram for my car anywhere on the net. Also i have the ENTIRE dash loom from the h22a and the p13 ecu, i found the plugs to meet the engine same wire colors ofcourse. Im very much a learner and have no qaulifications on this feild, im solely taking on a challenge.
Any help would be great. All the homework iv done prior to swap suggests there are little wiring issues to sort but not from what i see, although im yet to find a exact thread on the same year motor and exact same car. Yeah was just thinking that! Login Facebook. YouTube - H22a wiring issues!
HELP Video of my problems!!! Ethan Well-Known Member. CDelgado New Member. Thats exactly what i had to do to mine. I have a 96 accord with obd2. A few extentions and it runs great. Correct thing to do it take both hoses into a shop and get prelude end that bolts to pump attached to accord steel line. I stuck at this project, took me awhile, i was in no rush.
An almost complete h22 swap guide if you will. I've done the swap and regret not taking pics of pulling and installing the h22 in my 92 hatch. What you'll need: H22 Motor and trans p13 ecu or chipped ecu like a p28 Shifter box and cables Swap mounts Injector resistor box or do Bizzar's DSM injector resistor mod from d-series.
First: Pull your existing motor, shift linkage and center console. I do not need to do a step by step on how to remove your motor. If you do not know how to do this please close your IE box now. Okay, so now your motor is out. It's time to pull out your sawsall or other cutting device and drill. Cut the ears off both sides right where the threaded nut is welded to it. For the smaller hole, we're going to use this as a pilot hole for your new mount.
Take your drill with a long drill bit the same diameter as your mounting bolt and drill out the pilot hole on both sides. So you have your fresh H22 sitting there on the ground.
Go ahead and put your swap mounts on the motor and the rear mount on the chassis. There's a threaded stud on the trans that might need to be cut down to clear the passenger side chassis mount, now would be the time to do that. Pull the wiring harness's off both motors. I used a 93 EX harness on my swap.